After driving through the splendid scenery of Glacier National Park (now listed on maps as Waterton/Glacier International Peace Park), we crossed the border into Canada and began watching for signs to the "Smashed-In-Head Buffalo Drop." Unaware of its significance, we had bypassed the site in 1996. Now, having learned that it was here where the Indians once stampeded buffalo over a particular precipice in order to harvest them for food, clothing and other needs to see them through lean times, we decided to stop and take a look.

After visiting the interesting and elaborate museum hugging the cliffside near the old drop-off point, we continued on, traversing the plains of Alberta. It was nearing evening by then, and the shades of color in the fields changed with every rise in the road. A tapestry of brilliant gold and dark green ran to the flat horizon in every direction.

Distances between the small towns along the route seemed to be increasing. Concerned about finding a spot for the night, we chose the first motel we came to, in Mossleigh. Next morning we drove many miles before at last finding a place to have breakfast.

The restaurant was in Drumheller, now a bustling town of about 7,800 thanks to the museum which draws both casual visitors and scientists from all over the world. In the front lot of the visitors center, adjacent to a park, a monstrous dinosaur sculpture resembling a giant jigsaw puzzle in 3-D was being assembled.

The Royal Tyrrell Museum lies a few miles out of town. The low, modern structure seemed well-suited to its surroundings of stark, drab cliffs and sand. A 107-step wooden stairway beckoned us to the top of a nearby mound, the perfect vista point from which to view a wide panorama of valleys and cliffs. Clearly, we thought, there had been ample space for dinosaurs in this vast area.

Inside the museum we noticed a young lady, seated in a corner, carefully cleaning miniscule bits of dirt from a bone. A video screen allowed us to see the delicate tool she was using and to watch her measured strokes. In a large, glass-enclosed room across the lobby, several other people were engaged in a painstaking bone-cleaning process.

The remainder of the three-floor museum featured dinosaurs of all shapes and sizes set in various attitudes and surroundings. From a lower level we gazed up at the T-Rex; ascending to the next, we could "look him in the eye." Placards also identified the skeletons of numerous, less famous types of dinosaurs. We watched videos, snapped photographs, and three hours later departed the building via the gift shop, the only exit for visitors.

Heading west, we crossed Canada 2 before turning south, avoiding Calgary. Deciding to stop at Cochrane, we noticed numerous people enjoying ice cream cones. My, but they looked enticing on this hot day! Finding McKay's, we joined the long line and were glad we did. It was the very best ice cream we'd ever had. That night we stayed in scenic Canmore, east of Banff. Having visited Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper on a previous trip, we bypassed them this time and drove steadily on to the Ice Fields, where we enjoyed the scenery and the visitors center. From there one can take a bus to the toe of Athabasca Glacier, just across the road. It was a grand photo opportunity, but the wind was icy. Even on that sunny July day, warm coats were needed!

Regardless of the time of year, weather is always something to consider when traveling through the Canadian Rockies. After driving west again, then south, we turned onto the Yellowhead Highway (5). This toll road was peppered with signs reminding us that conditions in this mountainous area were subject to sudden changes. Luckily, we experienced a beautiful drive and lovely weather. We continued on to Hope, British Columbia, returning to Washington the next morning by way of Sumas. We had spent only four days away from home, but the trip had given us memories to last for months.